September 6, 2009 Laura Cove, 11:45 AM with a third pot of coffee in the making

Rain is pouring out in those proverbial sheets outside our cabin. The surface of the water is alive with the large drops. Laura Cove exists currently in shades of deeper grey than the sky above. The clouds are muting the two steep hillsides thick with a dense forest of evergreens. The tide is ebbing so color is beginning to show along the grey granite rocks with shades of ochre kelp clinging to them. The Moody Blues have been playing for sometime creating a homey atmosphere. Liberté is solid no matter that she stands upon a fluid base of water.

We entered Laura Cove two days ago with the 6 knots at our aft. It was noted that everyone heading south from Desolation Sound, through Malaspina Strait, had on “hoodies” and foul weather gear. We were in shirtsleeves. Was this a sign of things to come? Only we would know after rounding Sarah Point.

At the northern end of Malaspina Strait, we were bearing down on a smaller sailboat. Her sails were up and by all appearances the young couple looked as if they were enjoying a very relaxed passage. Time was not an issue. Behind them a very large motor boat was approaching. Our decision to pass on the starboard side of the sailboat seemed the appropriate move. Just as we passed, “Zzzzing!” Oh dear, the man was fishing off the stern of the boat. As fate would have it, his line was off the starboard side. We were apologizing to the couple when up on their port side, with no consideration of slowing down, or pulling away, this most inconsiderate captain passed the sailboat with yards apart. Needless to say they were at the mercy of the wake for there was no time to respond. If I ever have the opportunity to let the captain of ADVENTURE from Seattle have an earful of not depending on autopilot as well as giving boats under sail power room, I would love to. As it will be, I did take a photo of the boat as she entered Melanie Cove yesterday afternoon around 5 PM. Definitely an Ugly American captain! He waves a huge American flag off his stern as big and brazen as this bloke! About a half hour after this incident, Pat told me to look beyond the stern and tell him what I saw. I thought a fish following along the surface, jumping a bit. No, it was a “diver” at the end of the line we snagged. I tried to catch the line with the boat hook with no luck. The power of the water coming from the stern was too strong. The throttle was lowered to a crawl and after several attempts, Pat snagged the line and I retrieved it with the hand over hand method. We did take a fair amount of line. Perhaps we will see the couple sometime soon and return to them what was abruptly snagged from them.

The anticipation of a homecoming, to Sarah Point, had excitement flowing in both Pat and myself. What was Desolation Sound prepared to offer us this year? The mountaintops were bare of snow. The sky was overcast with the large clouds proportional to the size of the country. With the exodus of southbound boats earlier, Malaspina Straits was empty. Once again, I took to the bow of Liberté, camera in hand to help capture that moment of awe as you open into Desolation Sound. I was not disappointed with this second entry. It will be fun to explore new fiords, islets, coves and when ashore, new trails.

Destination Laura Cove – Pat’s favorite of the two coves in Prideaux Haven was waiting. Pat offered to go in and peek at Melanie Cove. We could see only a few masts could be seen, and profiles of a handful of motorboats were in the first cove. No, I had been there last year. It was nice but I preferred moving on and getting established for the day in his favorite spot. Much to his surprise, there was one sailboat anchored at the end of the cove, near the shore. Never has he seen it empty. Within less than an hour of our anchoring out in the middle, towards the entrance, the single boat left. We were alone until a powerboat, a small hotel, arrived and anchored, blocking my view over to Melanie Cove. A couple other boats spent the night and were gone mid to late afternoon.

While Pat headed to what looked like shoal of rocks I went to looking for anything resembling an opening to him. For a neophyte navigating this region, caution is of the utmost advice. There are so many rocks just waiting to welcome an abrupt stopping point under the surface. It isn’t until low tide that many of these are apparent; or when we went kayaking yesterday afternoon once the sun broke free the clouds around 4 PM.

Today is a repeat of what the weather reports have been predicting; rain and more rain throughout the Labor Day weekend. Yesterday there were a few times gusts of wind had our boat spinning around but not significant or noteworthy. As I mentioned above, the clouds had wrung out all they had and the sun prompted them away. Everything was fresh, clean and sparkled. Where the sunbeams hit the water it danced as if diamonds were spilled out and electrified. Having sat patiently in the cabin all day, I wandered out to the cockpit mopping up small puddles of water. It was warm with the sun and the fresh air was welcoming. The rain-fly, twice the size it was last year is proving itself useful. Having solid poles at either end also helps with the height and dispersing the waterfalls of the deluge of rain these past couple of days. Pat emerged behind me and in no time we made the decision to lower the kayaks and paddle over to Melanie Cove. Our upper bodies came alive with the workout – it felt so good to explore within the inner passage. People began emerging from the protection of their cabins, few climbing into a tender to explore under the small engines or like us, in kayaks. We found ourselves looking skyward on occasion for there were ominous clouds remaining behind or above the mountains surrounding the Sound.

About the time we were heading back home, Intuition, was heading into Melanie Cove. Ron and Connie were here to anchor. We hailed them and after learning we were over at Laura Cove, turned around and moved over to anchor beside us. We paddled over and had an enjoyable visit as the day came to a close and we prepared our dinner.

Should the rain continue as they predict for the next couple of days, I shall be completing several projects. My Noro kimono sweater has one sleeve and the trim to be added. Pat’s sweater, has a way to go, but with some effort will be done before the trip is over. My project is so wondrous to work on. It is entertaining to watch the colors transform from blacks to greys to silver, browns, coppery gold to the slightest touch of butter yellow. The cut or style is simple and elegant. I am attempting to create in my head a pin to use to hold it close. Perhaps incorporate brass, copper and silver – this will have to wait until I return home.