Thoughts from Desolation Sound

July 7, 2008 Day Spa

When or how I began and ended my days with, “What will I do and/or what have I accomplished today?” I don’t honestly know. Today I am aware and questioning the compulsion to set goals has been a driving force in my life. It may, at times, have inhibited the freedom or natural ability to seize the moment and simply “just be”. Responsibility is a good virtue to own but to acknowledge and accept the responsibility to be good/reward oneself is important. And, when asked what a favorite memory is, the answer would honestly be: treasured moments of “playing” with my daughters or in my garden. Today is my little spa day!

In the past when asked what would be a perfect day for me I would answer with: a warm sunny day on a sandy beach, waves breaking in the background against the shore, a good book, and a long beach towel to stretch out on. The book, although the intentions would be to read, really was a pretext to look as if I was going to read. The warm sandy beach is great to push and scrunch around to take my body’s form as well as radiate stored heat , and the towel is simply practical to keep the sand off and out of me. Just moments ago, while lying on the bow of Liberte’ I realized I had just bettered this. The sounds of waves are below me as the water gently caresses the hull, my sound of music is much improved with robins and other songbirds in the forests compared to the cacophony of seagulls. My masseuse is the sun as he kneads his sunrays’ warmth across my shoulders and deep into my bones. I have a pillow to soften my contact with the deck of Liberte’, thus there are no sand fleas irritating my skin. The gentle breeze cools my skin’s surface which prevents overheating and causes me to shorten my time to a perfect time-out. I am learning to really enjoy this new habit of ‘time-out’. Should it be every day, then perhaps it would not be the gift it is. The fact I am aware and appreciate today is good. Pat and I do have many bounties as a married couple. Slowly I am beginning to fully acknowledge and appreciate more and more these gifts as time passes. This year, with our three big trips, indicates we definitely are utilizing the gift of time to enjoy one another.

We took our leave from Melanie Cove by 7:30 AM this morning and headed over to Roscoe Cove. There are two windows, each at high tide that allows sailboats to enter the inner cove. In my lesson this morning, Pat explained and showed me using the Ports and Passes, how he figures out our grace period so that leaving will not be a problem with our seven foot keel. Making passage at an incoming tide allows for a better chance; should you round aground, the incoming water will lift you off sooner than later. Pretty important stuff to know!

Anchoring here was easy. Actually, it has been easy everywhere due to Pat’s experience and the powered windlass. More fascinating has been watching the behavior of a boat once the anchor is set. Being the neophyte, I am certain drives Pat a little crazy as I bring to his attention we might be getting ‘too close’. In Melanie Cove the conflict/action of the wind, current and tide all had our boat moving over quite a large area. Pat chose to have a 6:1 scope. The difference between high and low tide was 12-15 feet so Liberte’ took the opportunity to spread her wings at times. After three uneventful nights it is now making more sense to me.

We took our kayaks ashore so that we could take the short walk over to Black Lake. I wore my swimsuit and flip-flops with the intention of taking a dip in fresh water. It was cool, but not cold and felt very refreshing. Before returning to our ‘home’ we paddled all around the entire perimeter of the cove, exploring the shoreline. The tree line comes down to the water’s edge predominately. This leaves only a couple places to go ashore. A small set of mini-waterfalls trickle down a rocky cliff near the entrance. Just across from our mooring I can hear a small stream run to meet the saltwater. At the end of the cove is a larger stream that is fed by Black Lake. At the mouth are large beds of oysters clinging to the sides of the hills or in colonies of their own. Clear, non-stinging jellyfish waved and danced along the bottom. An innumerable amount of small to minute clam shells, all empty occupied the shoreline. Why they are empty I do not know. We have seen a few ducks and an occasional seagull but no other predators such as otters or raccoons have been seen.

Tomorrow we intend on carrying our kayaks over to Black Lake and explore the lake’s shoreline and perhaps the island towards the opposite end. Tonight we will host new friends, Jak and Anita, from Nanaimo, BC over for ‘happy hour’. Jak is a retired music teacher and will bring his guitar over to share his love of music.

July 6, 2008 Prideaux Haven - Melanie Cove

We awoke to stillness, only broken by the sounds of songbirds hidden deep within the forest surrounding Melanie Cove, greeting the new day. Looking above and out of the V-berth hatch window, the sky was pale blue. The water was still for there were no sounds coming from our hull. Even the minto quietly sat tied snug to the backstay. It takes less for her sides to react, or ‘slap’ In a rolling fashion from side to side, against a change in the current, tide or waves due to wind. For as much time as I have spent, five weeks, discerning which way the boat is swinging while at anchor or on a buoy, still baffles me. When sitting out in the cabin, looking out the narrow slits of window, helps because I can see the tree line move forward, or backward. On a couple days when the weather was creating sloppy seas, or a large power boat with disregard to no wake zones, unless I really focus, there is little or no sensation of movement. Liberte’ must sit well or I’ve a good set of sea-legs!

We haven’t had a ‘busy’ day for so long; one that had us up before 6 AM and pulling our anchorage to make for a destination or working the tides in our favor that I feel a little embarrassed to think I’m getting lazy! In doing the busy work of housekeeping or preparing a meal, there is something to show for the little time spent. The days while moored we have the decision to read a book, cast a few stitches on a sweater is nearing completion, kayaking or rowing to shore for a hike are pretty much the extent of the day. Pat has the goal of waxing the surface of the deck before we return. Another highlight is to sit in the cockpit at twilight and watch the sky transition from light to darkness. This can take some time with the longer daylight hours of summer. We haven’t watched the night sky fill with stars due to cloud coverage or being at dockside on clear nights. Pat and I should come back well rested with two months of a restful state.

We did take our kayaks out for what was our longest outing this morning. We navigated in and out of the majority of the coves and bays here in Prideaux Haven. The tide was outgoing but not in a hurry thus there were no issues of the direction we would choose. Two seagulls talked uncontrollably as we slide by. With the stillness of the cove, the sound echoed, multiplying it by ten-fold. The entire time out, it was quite noticeable that fish appear to be missing. The contiguous walls that make this an island and the rock shoals projecting themselves in precarious locations for boaters are rich with oysters. Signs are posted throughout the park and in most of the cruising guides that they are not to be picked, they are unsafe for consumption. We found one knowledgeable sailor who had continued on and beyond the common bay for anchoring and found a cove “just right for one” good size sailboat. My suspicion is that entering and exiting is only done with the highest of tides.

Last night we rowed the minto to the end of the bay, with the goal of locating Mike’s cabin. The tide shift had been around 12-15 feet if I have it right, so planning where to tying the painter after bringing the boat in over the mucky, rocky and heavy with oysters beach was a big ordeal. It was beginning noticeably migrate in. The trail head was hidden under heavy evergreen boughs and looked easy. The undergrowth was dense as the canopy above. Deer fern, sword fern, salal, nurse logs with moss five inches thick were the most recognizable to me. The evening sunlight filtered through in sections, creating a spotlight effect in some areas. We saw no evidence of Mike living here – no apple trees – nothing other than a verdant forest. After about fifteen minutes of tripping over large roots that dominated parts of the good trail, or working to avoid walking through muddy patches we decided to return to our minto and save hiking for another day. In wading to retrieve the boat and keep her from scraping against the oyster beds, I discovered how warm the water is here– it felt as a lake by the end of summer to me.
What little we have passed through here in Desolation Sound, I do believe that this is part of the beauty, the uniqueness of the area that draws many to return; so many private and magical places to discover and yet protected from the winds that can blow.
Tomorrow Roscoe Bay so we have to be up and out by 9 AM to get over the drying shoal that divides the inner and outer coves. I look forward to going there, a favorite place of Pat. From what I read, there is a lake to swim in, and trails to hike. I’ll let you know what we find. Now back to the very quiet serenity in my backyard.

July 5, 2008 Are you sitting comfortably; letting Merlin cast his spell?

The Moody Blues are singing this melody, as we lie at anchor in Melanie Cove, Desolation Sound; the clouds are approaching closer to the top of the mast rather than dispersing as we hoped would happen as the day progressed. The original plan was to row to the end of the cove and hike about, exploring the remains of Mike’s cabin, his apple orchard and tumbling rock walls surrounding what was a garden. The day may offer this opportunity later in the afternoon – or not. Both Pat and I are very content today. Mother Nature is flip-flopping with rain showers and has made it easy to sit back in the shelter of our floating home. My other ambitions were to clean the cabin, complete a front to a sweater I’m knitting and start the sleeves and make this journal entry. Later, prepare Pat a rib roast dinner.

I love what I have seen of the Desolation Sound and am in no hurry to move on. There was a serenity that encompassed me once we passed the entrance to the Desolation Sound. In fact, while I write this, I’m questioning myself why didn’t we get here earlier? In one of the many readings Pat has provided me on the region, it stated that Princess Louisa Inlet made believers of non-believers; for me Desolation Sound is living proof that there is a Higher Power with infinite powers of creating beauty that is hard to match. Even with the winds blowing with erratic irregularity, I have a sense of security and tranquility. Combine this with Pat’s company and being aboard Liberte’, this is a safe haven. I don’t want to leave, or rush the moment. I am thinking about whom I am, where I’ve been and where I want to go. It will be here that goals will be revisited and re-evaluated. I prefer to believe that life is an evolution; a continuous learning process that allows mistakes, (only learning to recognize and acknowledge them), and emerging with stronger character, less character defects. Reaching this point on the charts, not maps, reconfirms that the quiet setting of outdoors, smaller towns rather than busy cities is my preference. Enough! You are here to read about my thoughts and observations about the past few days.

Westview: I appreciated the comfort and the flavor of this town. It is geared for the many transients, cruisers going and returning from the waterways north and they make you feel welcome. Some of the amenities included are: marine store, Laundromat, bowling alley, several bookstores and day spas, gift and clothing shops, even a quilt shop, liquor and within a mile the major shopping center with two grocery stores, Wal-Mart, drugstore, Canadian Tires and Starbucks! There are many eateries ranging from pizza, Greek, Thai, Mexican, a free internet bakery and our favorite – The Alchemist, a French restaurant with a touch of Tuscany.
We treated ourselves to an exquisite meal that went from touching our sense of taste, eye appeal with food presentation to the ambiance of the dining room, and a personable and extremely talented owner/chef - Francoise. He and his wife, also an exceptional cook, opened exactly a year ago. They took an old house and renovated the interior: large Mediterranean tiles on the floor, soft textured walls of yellow, few paintings and prints hung the wall , and the warmth of mahogany chairs surrounding tables simplistically set with cloth runners and crisp white linen napkins that spoke volumes of the care to details. Every dish brought to our table or to neighboring diners demonstrated a passion of the owners. Nothing was haphazardly set on a dish. Francoise, and his wife are the owners/chefs, walked around the dining room introduced himself, asking how we enjoyed the meal. Pat choice had been the lamb – a shank combined with 2-3 standing ribs, accented with a sauce, both cooked to perfection in texture and flavor. The side of Yukon gold potatoes and roasted vegetables had him nearly licking the plate. My decision was to go with the chicken breast that had a variety of flavors entwined that never overwhelmed one another, rather compliment. It was served with polenta with a pleasant bite and the roasted vegetables; asparagus, beet, carrot and zucchini. The salad we began with was very fresh greens with light balsamic vinaigrette, a piece of thin crisp toast spread heavy with herb boursin cheese encouraged our appetites. Our dessert, profiteroles, was garnished with a gooseberry. The outer paper like skin had been sliced and peeled back and left to dry to look like tissue paper leaves. It had been chilled so when the diner bit into the fruit the cold distinct taste was a sensory delight. We offered him Seattle. Should he make the move we promised we would be there so frequent, we would have a table of our own! Our waitress, also French, was charming and Karen was the perfect hostess; graciously communicated between the diners and the cooks in the back with sparkling eyes, a genuine smile and attitude of making you feel at home and not a stranger. The Alchemist is a definite reason to revisit Westview, if not on our return then next year. We wish them well and continued success.

So what is it that makes Desolation Sound “heaven on earth”? Waterways made up of channels, coves, and bays of every size and contour, creating a maze, are outlined with islands, islets or rock/s of a variety of shoreline. Although few, sand – rocky beaches appear as welcome landing to the kayakers you see out here. Yesterday we did see one kayaker making several attempts before returning back into his boat out in the middle of Thulin Passage, the northern end of Copeland Islands. We slowed to offer assistance, but his companion was towing him to the beach at that point and waved all was well. Rocky cliffs of varying heights seem to be the rule. With all the little nooks and crannies, Pat said that a sailor has opportunities to find shelter as long as one studies the charts as to be advised to lay of the land below. Drying rocks, shoals that emerge during low tide could ruin the inattentive sailor should he rush in to pass over of lay anchor. Evergreen firs densely cover major sections of the islands which look as is they are made of volcanic, old rock. Some walls are sheer and smooth or stepped, making me consider paintings of Japan, while others are rounded and carved smoothed by centuries of current rushing by with a certainty of the water’s force. Layers upon layers of rolling hills and low mountains made me visualize watercolors. In the distance snow capped peaks are still visible.

We entered into Homfray Channel as the tide was going out which gave sight to thick patches of kelp and algae ranging from black to the multitude of shades green-ending with chartreuse. The artist within was enjoying every essence and beauty offered to four of the five senses; I simply had to leave the security of home. Sounds of seagulls above, songbirds onshore, the wind in the sail, and water pushing past our boat’s hull, the warm air to the touching our skin and feeling the roll of the waves below, the smell of the sea and sea life clinging to the drying rocks that is strong enough you can almost taste the mix of salt and iodine, and visually the excitement of discovering what is around the next bend or up on each island stirs the poet, the artist, an outdoorsman and the naturalist – that sums up a sailor in my estimation. I’m happy that I married one and grateful he is willing to share and teach me this way of life.

During the four hour journey under multiple methods of cruising to Melanie Cove, we were all but solitary sailors which gave the sense of discovery an added sense of awe and wonder. I believe that we could spend years meandering in and about so that we could become well versed on the region. I’m ready to pickup the books that tell of the history and describe the wildlife, flora and geography of Desolation Sound. Next time I will not resist when Pat says,” let’s go.” I’ll be ready and willing!

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