June 12, 2008 – Living aboard a sailboat
Today was another lazy start to our day. The reason for this was that we had another windstorm. The wind came in from the East, the barometer had shown no indication of a change, and in fact it was showing an improvement with the weather. The halyards snapped against the mast in an irregular rhythm , the shrouds made of wire sent out a high pitched hum – thankfully not constant, and the bobbing of the boat in inconsistent waves; all were sounds and motions unfamiliar to me, especially when it is dark-thirty. Tried as I did, sleep would not come to me. When the minto did crash against the stern, Pat awakened quickly and jumped out to see how to remedy the chaos. Pat kept busy figuring out what was the best configuration to keep the minto from crashing up against our stern. (In light air, keeping her snug against the special fender worked well. With the gusts last night the wind was swirling around and releasing the tension on the painter was the solution.), we both decided sleep was not going to occur for awhile. We grabbed our books, had a cup of cocoa or coffee and enjoyed the heat of our diesel heater. Around 3 AM the wind subsided substantially, that we returned to bed and got some sleep. The way the wind has picked up this afternoon, my hunch is that we may be in for more of the same tonight. The twirling around the buoy as the wind shifts and surges has begun once more.
Today’s walk about the island took us to Shallow Bay, and several other smaller coves. There have been more boats moored on this island, but most of their owners have kept close to their boats. I am enjoying the rites of spring on each of the islands. Sucia seems to have a more diversity of flora and fauna than I have noticed on Orcas and Jones Islands. Hummingbirds were actively moving about from blossom to blossom of what resembles the lipstick plant. The hum of bees was as prevalent as the perfume of wild roses – thickets of them everywhere. The smell of blackberries was so strong at times, my mouth watered and I could almost taste them. Signs of wind damage have also been more evident on this island than the other two. Large fir trees have recently been sawn, to clear the trail, and at the trailhead by the beach, a couple of fallen alders were in full dress; their leaves have not had time to shrivel or fade. An eagle was confident that we were not going to bother him, so he sat stoically in a snag along the path of Shallow Bay. Yes, I got photos, but as usual, the camera lens is never big enough to fill the screen with just eagle.
Housekeeping is easy on Liberte’. I simply pick up the scatter rugs; shake them out at the stern. While they get a little air, a little broom catches the big crumbs and a damp rag picks up what little else remains and that is it! The galley was my concern, but we are getting along quite well. If I were cooking for larger quantities and more often every day, perhaps the digging for a particular item in the refrigerator might drive me nuts. Keeping similar items in individual containers has made this easier to locate ingredients for a meal. Having a freezer, no matter how small has been a real bonus also. The secret has been to remember that I have one and remove meat from it in the morning for dinner.
June 11, 2008
Fossil Bay, Sucia Island.We are starting the day slowly while listening to the news on the radio, enjoying a good cup of coffee, breakfast prepared by the Captain and discussing the business of the day; taking a long walk or kayaking. Reading from our wide array of books has been a big part of every day. Pat has a stack to swap next time we land at a marina with a Laundromat with well used books. It would be interesting to know who had read the books; their stories of adventures that may have taken – no better teacher than those who have made passages to places one may be considering.
The weather improved yesterday during the two hour passage to Sucia. Last night there was a storm that passed by. Moored deep within Reid Harbor, we hardly noticed it. Very few cruisers-power or sail- passed us heading either north or south. This made it easy for my imagination to see the region as early explorers or the first people. The clouds were low, meeting the islands’ treetops. Every island has a stand of evergreens, varied only in density due to the island’s size. Each stand showed the direction of prevailing wind. This might have helped me navigate, a directionally challenged woman on land. Just imagine what it is like for me on water! I do appreciate the use of a compass and Pat’s navigation equipment Liberte’ is equipped with, yet to look out and indentify islands and know where to set a track for our Raymarine navigation system as Pat is able to do, is mysterious. I realize that he has been doing this for over 30 years so it is like me visiting my backyard. Repeated sails to this region will be my best teacher. In the meantime, I trust him totally!
Yesterday we took a short hike over to Fox Cove and a short hike up to the top of hill above it. A gaggle of geese were the only occupants of the cove and one Great Blue Heron, stalking the water’s edge for dinner. All the coves and bays in this part of the island are mirror calm today. This is quite the opposite of yesterday’s weather. We are sharing Fossil Bay with four other boats – children are no where to be seen or heard, so it is as if we were alone.
June 9, 2008
Stuart Island, weather reports prediction: wet with talk of strong winds later today and evening. We are sitting within our cabin on Liberte’; the heater is efficiently pumping out heat, Pat is enjoying his daily mocha and I’m having an Americano and a classical melody is playing softly on the radio. It is hard to believe that we are on a boat and not in our home. OK, the engine is on in order to keep a full charge on the batteries. Running the engine an hour provides a tank full of hot water and makes available the many accessories to keep us content. It promises to be a long day inside due to the rainstorm outdoors. We are grateful Mother Nature constrained herself until we stepped onboard after a three and half hour walk around the island. Boy did she let go once we were safe!
Our walk included the one room schoolhouse, which is closed this year due to no students on the island. Turn Point Lighthouse, with an expansive view that takes in the straits and Canada on the horizon; a couple of double kayakers were venturing out searching for pods of Orca that are reported to be in the region. We did see fins of what presumably were Dahl porpoises. I enjoy kayaking, but to do as they, out with large rollers from passing freighters in large open expanses of water is out of my comfort zone. Perhaps one day I’ll be there. Until then, I will enjoy the view from the cliff above. We stopped by the small island cemetery. From a distance the color of fresh flowers gave the impression that on Memorial Day the islanders had come to pay respects. No, they were silk flowers; perhaps new this year after the storms of winter, for they were not ragged or the colors dulled by the seasons. This cemetery is home to only a couple handful of people ranging from; local – colorful Littlewolf, a Civil War hero, a three year old boy who died from blood poisoning due to a rusty buckle on his overalls, and a more recent burial of someone who simply loved the island and requested this her final resting spot. On the way back, we took a walk down a noted dead end. Besides being drawn to the idealistic setting, we believed that there was a post office we could use. The post office, a small brown building was vacant; tall grasses surrounded the building showed no indication of being passed on in a long time. The idealist segment of this road less traveled was the fairly expansive farm on our right. Perhaps 20 acres on a corner lot; open fields, with the road along two sides and woods inland. The barn, painted with a fresh coat of red was positioned close to the road, while the yellow and brown residence was set back into the woods and rocky hillside. The house windows faced out to the entrance of Prevost Bay. Not only did they have what would be a wonderful working farm, their beach must have been the length of a football field. A gazebo that looked like a new building must be a wonderful protection for wet summer days that are warm enough to enjoy a meal outdoors. If I could conjure up an ideal setting to raise a family or retire to, this would be it. Geese were lying in the field while the cattle grazed lazily. I would add a few chickens to provide me fresh eggs. There were horses, but those could be given to someone who enjoyed them more than me.
We did stop at the one-room schoolhouse, wandered through the library and bought some postcards. The Islanders use this money to buy more books for the children. Outside of the school yard is a treasure chest that a local family has built and filled with an assortment of things to sell to visitors; t-shirts, hats, and note cards with original artwork. You take what you like and they request that you simply send a check to them with money for your purchase. They supply a self-addressed envelope for this purpose. It must be working for them, for they have been doing business for a long time.
I’m now going to turn my efforts to the galley and make a loaf of cinnamon, apple bread. It will treat for me to make with our easy bake oven and our little red boat will definitely smell like home! Looking out of the companionway, I am so glad that I found time to make the boom-tent before leaving. It is working quite well, expanding protection beyond the dodger. Life is good as is our adventure thus far.